showning the 2 parts of a variable speed blower motor, the motoer and ecm control module out of a carrier gas furnace
HVAC carrier gas furnace ecm blower motor and control module
April 21st, 2010 
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Posted in Videos 
Tags: "gas, blower, Blower Motor, Carrier Furnace, Carrier Gas Furnace, control, Control Module, ecm, furnace, hackfreehvac, HVAC, module, motor, Motor Control, speed, Speed Blower, variable, Variable Speed, zarkoff
Yes and no, they have one that is pretty cheap that you can buy at most supply houses, mine only has an on and off switch on it and you pull the control wires from the module and plug yours in and then hook up two aligator clips on your controller to 24v on the system and you can test it that way. If it works with your controller you know it is a control board issue , if it doesn’t then it has to be the motor and/or module.
…I did see a guy demonstate in a class I took testing it with a paperclip, 9v battery and a jumper but I don’t recall the pin-out
i would like to see your tester that you use. thanks
Will do, just need to get it out of the truck and get motivated. Had a long day with some pain calls so just reading mail and drinking coffee before I play some world of warcraft and kill things
Just curious why you replaced the motor as well and not just the Electronic Control Module? Maybe it was running under adverse conditions? I’ve replaced just the module 100% of the time and never had a call back out of a about a dozen last year. Sometimes you can find a burn on the electronic board that you can confirm the ECM has gone bad. Obviously ohm our your windings, there is documentation from carrier telling you what it should read. Good video man.
Would that thing happened to be called a “TECMate PRO ?”.
Some one from Carrier (I think his name was John Lane) also told me about the 9 volt battery trick.
I do have a “ECM service guide” (gray book) that I also picked up from the trade show and it has a pin-out on page 17 and 18 for the X-13 ECM motor. There’s a “Common” pin and pins 1,2, and 4 where you’d check for a 9 to 23 VDC control voltage input. Nothing on the 2.0 ECM though; it tells you to use the TECmate.
wow, I am being charged $960 tommorow and not even sure if it the motor or not, wish i had a tester to see if it is this board you are talking about
its allways control module is the problem ,motor never burns
me and the infinity go rounds with each other, that system has many bugs to be worked out. First time i ran into one of the ecm motors failures i called tech support on that to find out what i was actually looking at. suprise it was to me to hear thats a 3 phase dc motor. bought the little module tester 100% of the time for me its been that stupid module… luckily all of them ive replaced have been factory warranty.
How do you replace the relays on the circuit board for the fan. I have a ruud furnance thats about ten years old. The motor went bad, I had it checked and got a new one for 146.00. We by bassed it like you did in the video and got cool air now. Do we need to replace the whole board or just the relays. they don’t look like they unplung, so will I have to sauder new relays?We bybassed becuase it would not start, the limit is good and motor, please help.
As a rule of thumb you don’t replace the relays on the circuit board, you just replace the whole board. There is some reasoning behind this too.. (my opinion) …theh only thing the board does in relation to running the AC is the blower, BUT it has all of the furnace operation and safeties in it. Quite often it might not just be the relay but some other control problems on the board, which isn’t worth risking your life over when it comes to heating the house!
Thanks, will do.
wow if your customer knew you cost them 750 + your mark up to guess the motor was bad too when it was prob. just a bad module. i know id be a lil upset with you. hope they dont see your video.
No worries, the customer didn’t pay for it!
Can you send me a link for where you found the part on google. My control module went bad , but cant find any place to get it. BTW if you want to save your customers some money, usually when those controllers go bad, it is a blown thermistor, you can see the burn on the back of the board, it’s $1.25 part, a little soldering, and they are good as new. Unfortunately not the case with mine, problem is somewhere under the goop.
wow! another reason to stay clear of Carrier.
hey carrier is very proud of their parts. i had to do a vent motor and our company cost was $280. hell rheem only run us about $145 and good man $120.
part changer
Why would you give customers your cost? Do you appreciate your pay? If customers knew how much the parts were you would make significantly less.
If you take the module from the motor on everyone you find bad, i bet 90% of the time its the burnt resistor, looks like a black disc soldered to the module board.
Thanks I wish you would show close up of the module. nice video for us novices
this is sacred info.. thanks for saying that its expensive tho.. i have so many people tell me im ripping them off.
have you ever removed copper from an old motor? seems like a daunting task…
@ab9957 I tried ONCE, it was a painfully tedius experience and I gave up and decided not to bother trying that again :>
i would like to see you do a new install. see if you had any good tricks or ideas
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